Montag, 17. September 2012

Hannibal and Eldorado

Another perfect automne-like weekend. With Steffi we left Friday evening by Cämperli direction to Grimsel, as we wanted to go climbing to Eldorado. But saturday morning, when we stood up, it was cloudy, wet and cold. So we decided to go to Furka, which was actually the plan for the next day. Arrived on the Furka, we meet amazing weather, but still cold temperatures. But soon on the way up direction to Hannibal, we were getting warmer. Via the snow coverd "path" we arrived at the base of Hannibal, where we climbed the route Hanimoon 6a+. And on the top on the bench :-) we were having lunch and looking at the clouds which were coming and going. Back to the Grimsel, we found a perfect camping side and enjoyed the last shafts of sunlight. Sunday morning we walked along the Grimselsee direction to Eldorado and were astonished by the beauty of the landscape. We climbed the 16 pitch route Septumania 6a+ and were having a lot of fun :-)
 the Furka-region: Galenstock und Grosses Bielenhorn
 Hannibal
 Hannibal closer
 last pitch of Hanimoon
 the famous bench and bus stop on the top of Hannibal
 on the way to Eldorado, Grimselpass, background: Finsteraarhorn
 1st pitch of Septumania
 Septumania
 Steffi in pitch number 9
 me in a slabby slab ;-)
 happy in the perfect surrounding
the athletic crux of pitch number 14
sunset atmosphere on the way back to Cämperli

Montag, 10. September 2012

Wiwanni

It's many years ago, when I first time was on the Wiwanni. At that time we went there with all the familiy during a "family-mountaineering-week" with Egon Feller. This weekend we did a revival with the whole family and my 10 year old niece Janice.  For her it was first time in the mountains and first time climbing :-)

Ready for the way up to the hut
 the famous fences which had to be passed
 our target
on the way to the hut, with the Wiwanni in the background
 at the Wiwannihut
 Janice first outdoor climbing experiences
 my mum...like a pro
 on the way down from the climbing crag
 my family and Janice
 the view from the hut (Stockji in the background)
 the view from the hug (Wiwanni and Augstkummenhorn in the background)
morning atmosphere, Weisshorn in the background
 on the way up...Trittji


 family
 nearly on the top
 on the top, with Bietschorn
 on the way down via W-ridge
 W-ridge
W-ridge
 the 50m rappel


our picnic place

Witze des Tages: :-)
- Was haben Bergsteiger und Teenager gemeinsam? Pickel
- Was haben Wolken und Lehrer gemeinsam? Wenn sie sich verziehen, gibt es einen schönen Tag

Donnerstag, 30. August 2012

Multipitch routes

- Idroelettrica to Rifugio Monzino and Bertone Zampelli on Aiguille de la Croux:
Instead of walking up the normal Via Ferrata to the Rifugio Monzino, together with Luca, Katia and Virgilio we decided to climb the Idroelettrica, an easy but very nice multipitch route. It was increadibly hot and finally arrived in the hut, we enjoyed the cold beverages :-). Starched from a very tasty dinner, the next day we were ready to hit the new equiped route Bertone Zampelli on Aiguille de la Croux. Really nice climbing, some perfect cracks and a very tricky 7a were leading to the top. On the way down, we had to leave Katias and Virgilios rope, as it got stuck. :-) 
 the possibilities from Monzino you have...would like to go one day back
 Mont Blanc from the top of Aiguille de la Croux
 Luca with the offpist possibilites of Courmayeur in his back :-)
Aiguille noir...a dream!!!

- Sagittarius, Grimselpass:
After the amazing musical in Thun, Titanic, Steffi and I, with Cämperli, decided to go direction to Grimselpass. We wanted to climb Sagittarius, a 6b multipitch route with some slabbly slabs and a nice 30m crack. Indeed, thats how it was. Our only problem was a english couple in front of us, which were thwarting us. But this made, that we could have a nice chat which a swiss couple just behind us at every belay station :-) On the way down, we showed them how rappelling is done fast and save. Back to the Cämperli we collected some blueberries and had blue spots everywhere afterwards :-)
 the topo
 Steffi in the slabbly 6b
 the view
 amazing, just too many people
 Nicole, the girlfriend from Boris, who where just climbing behind us
 Rappelling in sneakers is soooo comfortable
mhmmmm

- Fair Hands Line, Grimselpass:
This fameous line, just next to the Gelmerbahn, was our aim for the next day. As in the descprition is was written that the protection is "so...so", we took some gear with us (thanks to The Mountain Academy). With a strange feeling in the stomach, Steffi started...but as we were going on, she got more releaxed and after the the 3rd pitch, we both were just having fun. Amazing rock, some tricky parts and all the time next to the Gelmerbahn...That's Fair Hands Line. From the top of the route, we crossed to the rails and were walking up to have a look at the Gelmersee. And then we took the Gelmerbahn, the steepest cable car with a inclination up to 106 percent.
 the topo
 our pillar
 Steffi in one of the nicest pitch
Gelmersee