Donnerstag, 30. August 2012

Multipitch routes

- Idroelettrica to Rifugio Monzino and Bertone Zampelli on Aiguille de la Croux:
Instead of walking up the normal Via Ferrata to the Rifugio Monzino, together with Luca, Katia and Virgilio we decided to climb the Idroelettrica, an easy but very nice multipitch route. It was increadibly hot and finally arrived in the hut, we enjoyed the cold beverages :-). Starched from a very tasty dinner, the next day we were ready to hit the new equiped route Bertone Zampelli on Aiguille de la Croux. Really nice climbing, some perfect cracks and a very tricky 7a were leading to the top. On the way down, we had to leave Katias and Virgilios rope, as it got stuck. :-) 
 the possibilities from Monzino you have...would like to go one day back
 Mont Blanc from the top of Aiguille de la Croux
 Luca with the offpist possibilites of Courmayeur in his back :-)
Aiguille noir...a dream!!!

- Sagittarius, Grimselpass:
After the amazing musical in Thun, Titanic, Steffi and I, with Cämperli, decided to go direction to Grimselpass. We wanted to climb Sagittarius, a 6b multipitch route with some slabbly slabs and a nice 30m crack. Indeed, thats how it was. Our only problem was a english couple in front of us, which were thwarting us. But this made, that we could have a nice chat which a swiss couple just behind us at every belay station :-) On the way down, we showed them how rappelling is done fast and save. Back to the Cämperli we collected some blueberries and had blue spots everywhere afterwards :-)
 the topo
 Steffi in the slabbly 6b
 the view
 amazing, just too many people
 Nicole, the girlfriend from Boris, who where just climbing behind us
 Rappelling in sneakers is soooo comfortable
mhmmmm

- Fair Hands Line, Grimselpass:
This fameous line, just next to the Gelmerbahn, was our aim for the next day. As in the descprition is was written that the protection is "so...so", we took some gear with us (thanks to The Mountain Academy). With a strange feeling in the stomach, Steffi started...but as we were going on, she got more releaxed and after the the 3rd pitch, we both were just having fun. Amazing rock, some tricky parts and all the time next to the Gelmerbahn...That's Fair Hands Line. From the top of the route, we crossed to the rails and were walking up to have a look at the Gelmersee. And then we took the Gelmerbahn, the steepest cable car with a inclination up to 106 percent.
 the topo
 our pillar
 Steffi in one of the nicest pitch
Gelmersee

Dienstag, 31. Juli 2012

Bonatti-Tabou on Chandelle du Tacul

My new life as an assistant doctor is not as bad as expected :-)
On Friday I had the chance to go with Luca to Bonatti-Tabou on Chandelle du Tacul.
Just amazing!!!
 Luca in Bonatti-Tabou
 ...searching for the way :-)
 Chandelle-Grand Capucin-Trident
 Luca on the traverse
 the amazing 6b+-pitch
 direction to Mt. Blanc
 Trident (background: Dent du Geant)
 happy on the top (background: Grand Capucin)
 the helicopter that filmed a team on Bonatti-rout on Grand Capucin

Grazie mille Luca!!!

Week of dreams

All the best moments and feelings from last TMAC-stage in Chamonix put in one video:
click here

Sonntag, 1. Juli 2012

TMAC stage 4: CHAMONIX

What an amazing week again. Lucky as we are, we got some good weather aswell.
We climbed:
1 day: Il rosso e il vampirla, Lomasti, Italy
2 day: Traverse of petits Charmoz
3 day: Salluard route on the Pointe d'Adolphe-Rey
4 day: La fin de Babylone on the Brévent
5 day: Cotamine-Vaucher on the Gendarme du Peigne
6 day: Cosmique's Ridge

Follow us on our blog!


Report from Manu
Report from Xavier

some pics (from the members of TMAC):
 our photographer David Ravel
 me on Salluard
 approach to Brevent; background: Mont Blanc
Bojan, Isa and Milos on Brevent
 our basecamp
 Seb and me on Traverse des Petits Charmoz
 me on Lomasti, la Rossa e il Vampirla
 Face Sud of Aiguille du Midi
my favorit pitch on Contamine-Vaucher
Neil and me in Contamine-Vaucher
 Envers des Aiguilles
 my small mouse...all the time with me
 the route we climbed on Lomasti
 Seb, one of the mountain guides
 just nice!!!

Around Courmayeur

 Cervinio and Dent Blanche from Val Grisenche
 Sang climbing "il porco" @ Bethaz
on the summit of Pyramides Calcaires
 Dent du Géant from Torino
 in the Burgasser route
 Luca leading the icy pitch with down jacket :-)
 frère et soeur
 the virgin on the summit (4013)
Sang and Luca with Mt. Blanc

Up in the sky :)

 me with Xandi
 Nikolay with Beno
Nikolay having fun :-)